Still no viable reason to neck turn. Can you explain then what happens if your inside neck tension is concentric but the outside isn't? What happens when you strike the firing pin?
James, the issue is how variable the necks are gripping the bullets. The case being pushed forward by the ejector and firing pin blow, and the case neck floating in the clearance of the chamber neck have no bearing on this. This is all academic.
I agree with you that it's not an issue that needs addressing with quality brass. I don't mean to be confrontational; just to have good discussion. The OP is already doing it so no qualms there. I hear ya. You're previous post seemed to take a pretty hard turn off topic, or just misunderstanding about what the neck turning operation does. We agree about it's real world merits, but I think we disagree as to why. I was trying to be very general since there are many ways to approach this.
My goal is to create an environment to have a "perfect" bullet release each time by removing variations in the case.
I'm always up to learn something new. This can be proven with prudent load development and chronograph data. If you size your cases and are in the group that does not use an expander ball or expander mandrel, you DO need to neck turn because you want your necks to be as concentric as possible so your bushing sizes your necks uniformly.
If youre also neck turning then you need to realize you're bushing size needs to be different than the conventinal method of "if you want 2 thousandths neck tension get the bushing that's. Sometimes you're not gonna have enough clearance or "acceptable clearance" said you want around 5 thousandths total clearance diametrically. Viable reason to neck turn. It's said that neck turning may also relieve you the need for annealing because the brass will spring back uniformly never tested this.
ZiaHunter Sergeant Full Member. Nov 25, 1, 1, 66 Southern NM. My question would be what are you trying to accomplish. If you are shooting steel, really not much point in turning your brass unless you are you are experiencing a fair amount of neck thickness variation. Haertlein was likely the result of his load not having enough tension to keep the bullet from moving and aligned with the axis of the bore through the process of loading. If necks are turned for brass to be used in a semi-auto, it is important to be able to keep a solid grip on the bullet to prevent movement and neck tension is best controlled with the use of neck dies that have bushings that can be changed to give the exact tension needed to provide the optimum results.
Taking a lot off of the necks while turning and using factory dies with no bushings will often leave insufficient neck tension. Your email address will not be published.
Your wishlist is empty. View Wishlist. Cart Cart 0. Share 0 0 0. Differing forces are bad when it comes to accuracy. Yes, the projectile will always have some bias introduced by gravity, but additional bias introduced by inconsistent neck thickness adds more variation.
Also bad. Benchrest shooters more or less eliminate off-center positioning with chambers that are cut very tight. You can also seat projectiles far enough out that they contact the rifleing leade. This self-centers them, but it can result in the bullet being stuck in the chamber—a disaster in the hunting fields. It is a lot of work, but it often provides a tangible accuracy increase. The great thing about this particular question is that neck turning—done right—never hurts. If you want to leave no stone unturned, by all means try it.
Candidly, though, production-grade hunting rifles right off the rack are unlikely to display a measurable increase in accuracy with neck-turned cases. Groups may or may not shrink, but is a drop from a 1.
Probably not. A decision about whether or not to neck turn your cases should be based on two elements. These are the quality of your brass and the quality of your barrel and chamber.
Assuming you have a premium match-grade barrel correctly mounted and chambered to a trued-up action, neck turning your cases is worth a try. If you discover a measurable accuracy benefit, continue neck turning. Brass quality is a major determining factor. In my experience, only Lapua brass is so consistent that practical accuracy rarely benefits from neck turning. Norma and Nosler brass are also superb but can sometimes benefit from neck turning. That's the secret, while not making someone think you're talking down to them.
I have to watch myself too, because sometimes I have made a remark I meant as humorous, then read it over a couple days later, and it came back to me as something totally different. Once you get it down, it'll all seem like child's play Grouper, With PPC I like to run the brass thru a body die after necking up giving me the sharper shoulder angle you mentioned , then run the neck over the expander again, neck turn and load for first fire form first firing usually formed pretty well after this method.
I don't know if that's the old fashioned way to form PPC, but I don't have a dedicated fire form barrel so that's just how I do it.
I'm curious though, are you using a fire form barrel, 22 cal bullets or some sort of plug to fire form before neck turning for your tight neck PPC? Are you also neck reaming? Somebody ought to conduct a poll. It would be worth reading. I fireform with Bullseye and a wax plug. I turn my brass after fireforming. I don't have a donut and my brass is longer after the first fireforming. I think your expander pushes the neck back some and I think they are crooked also.
I did it your way for 20yrs, but not anymore. You don't need an extra reamer for your fireforming barrel. I do also have an extra 30BR reamer with a no turn neck.
I use it also to make a real pleasant rifle for young people to hunt with. Butch Butch, This is what I am curious about since you are doing it. I am wondering what you do with the new brass that is unturned in order to fireform it. Does the brass fit the chamber new, or do you have to do something like use a neck bushing to size the brass so that it fits the chamber the first time?
I guess the problem is that fireforming first will put the brass variances to the interior of the neck, which is a bad thing. But then again using an expander doesn't guarantee the neck is perfectly straight when you go to turn, like you are saying. Pardon my inexperience, but when thinking about the problem at hand, it almost seems like the best way to do it would be to fireform the brass, then turn the inside of the neck.
That way you end up with a perfectly formed exterior, and the interior variances are then shaved off, also preventing a donut.
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